I get the same email this week. The subject line was: "Assafy, HELP! I booked my flights for March 2026 and just realized it's Ramadan. Will I starve? Is everything closed? Should I cancel?"
Stop. Put the phone down. Do not hit cancel.
Here is the honest truth: Ramadan in Morocco isn't a shutdown; it is a total remix. The country flips its schedule upside down. The days are slow, quiet, and lazy. But the nights? The nights are electric. It’s like the whole country decides to throw a massive dinner party every single night for thirty days straight.
If you visit during Ramadan 2026 (expected to run from mid-February to mid-March), you aren't getting the "standard" tourist package. You are trading your lunchtime beer for a front-row seat to the most intense, spiritual, and food-obsessed month of the year. But you need to know the rules of the game. Before you even pack your bags, grab an eSIM from Saily. You will need Google Maps to find the open restaurants when your stomach starts growling at noon, and you'll definitely want to post the midnight madness to your story.
Don't Cancel Your Trip: It's a Remix, Not a Shutdown
The Daily Rhythm: Sleepy Mornings and The 'Hunger Games' Rush
Let’s set the scene. If you are an early riser, you are about to own this country.
At 9:00 AM, the medinas of Marrakech and Fez feel like movie sets after the actors have gone home. The metal shutters are pulled down. The only things moving are the street cats and a few confused tourists. The shopkeepers were up until 4:00 AM eating their final pre-dawn meal (Suhour), so they are definitely sleeping in.
This is your golden hour. You can walk down the famous Rue Talaa Kebira in Fez without getting shoulder-checked by a mule or yelled at to "move, move!" It is quiet, calm, and perfect for photos.
The Shift: Around 3:00 PM, the shutters roll up. The city wakes up. But by 5:00 PM, the vibe changes completely. This is the "Ramadan Rush."
Imagine rush hour, but everyone is caffeine-deprived 🥱, hungry, and has exactly 45 minutes to get home to their families. The soundscape changes. It’s a mix of honking horns, shouting taxi drivers, and the distinct smell of exhaust fumes mixing with the scent of frying oil from the street stalls. It is chaotic.
If you need to get across town between 5:30 PM and 6:30 PM, you are playing a dangerous game. Taxis vanish. Uber prices surge. My advice? Use InDrive to pre-book your transfers if you have a flight to catch, or just find a rooftop, order a juice, and watch the madness from above.
The Boom, The Silence, and The Feast (Ftour)
Sunset is the moment everything pivots. In Tangier, crowds gather near the Sour Meêgazine wall to watch the cannon. In other cities, sirens wail across the rooftops.
Then, something spooky happens: absolute silence.
For 20 minutes, the streets are empty. No cars. No people. Just the sound of spoons hitting bowls inside every house. Everyone is breaking their fast with Ftour.
The Menu (Or: Why You Will Gain Weight) Forget your diet. Ftour is a carb-heavy, sugar-loaded masterpiece. Here is what is landing on your table:
- Harira: The MVP of soups. It’s a rich blend of tomatoes, lentils, chickpeas, and celery. It smells like comfort. Squeeze a lemon on it and thank me later.
- Chebakia: This isn't just a cookie; it's a challenge. It’s dough shaped like a flower, fried until crispy, drowned in honey, and covered in sesame seeds. The texture is a crunch followed by a sticky, chewy finish that will glue your teeth together in the best way possible.
- Briouat: Little fried triangles. The sweet ones are filled with almond paste; the savory ones have cheese, chicken, or seafood.
- Msemmen & Baghrir: The bread course. Msemmen are square, buttery, flaky pancakes. Baghrir are spongy crêpes with a thousand tiny holes to soak up the honey.
- Raib: A homemade yogurt that walks the line between a drink and a pudding. It’s usually sweetened and is the perfect way to cool down after the heavy soup.
Insider Picks: Where to Eat Ftour (From $ to $$$)
Most hotels offer a "Ftour Buffet," but they can be hit or miss. Here is how to do it right, depending on your budget:
The High Roller ($$$): La Mamounia (Marrakech) If you want to feel like royalty, this is it. Expect to pay around 1200 MAD ($120) per person. You get the best Harira in the city, lobster briouats, and a dessert station that looks like a jewelry shop. All set in their legendary gardens.
The Cultural Vibe ($$): Cafe Clock (Fez & Marrakech) This is a favorite for a reason. It’s relaxed, fun, and culturally immersive. Their Ftour costs about 150 MAD ($15). You get a huge platter of dates, soup, milkshake, and a camel burger slider. It’s a great place to meet other travelers and locals.
The Real Deal ($): The Local "Mahlab" Skip the restaurants. Find a local dairy shop (Mahlab). Point at a bowl of Harira, a hard-boiled egg, and a glass of avocado juice. It will cost you maybe 30 MAD ($3). You'll be eating standing up next to a guy in a suit and a guy in painter's overalls. It’s the best food you’ll have all trip.
To find the best spots near your Riad, I usually scan Tripadvisor for the latest reviews, but honestly, following the smell of grilled meat works just as well.
City Guide: Where to Be After Dark
The night doesn't end at dinner. It begins.
Casablanca Casablanca: Head to the Hassan II Mosque for Taraweeh prayers. Seeing 40,000 people praying in unison under the stars is powerful, even if you aren't religious. Afterward, the city parties. Drive down the Corniche. Places like Le Cabestan or La Sqala are buzzing with locals dressed in their finest traditional outfits (Gandouras and Djellabas), sipping coffee and smoking shisha until 2:00 AM.
Marrakech: Jemaa el-Fnaa is a sensory overload. The smoke from the grills creates a fog over the square. Storytellers, boxers, and musicians are out in full force. It’s loud, it’s crowded, and it’s brilliant. If you want a break, retreat to a cafe balcony.
Chefchaouen: The Blue City is the chill-out zone. The vibe here is much slower. The mountain air is crisp, and people stay up late playing cards in the small squares. It’s the perfect escape if the intensity of Marrakech gets too high.
Essaouira: The wind creates a natural AC. The medina is lively but manageable. The seafood grills near the port stay open late. It’s less about the party and more about the evening stroll.
The Rules of the Road (Don't Be That Guy)
You are a guest, so playing by the rules goes a long way.
- Public Eating: No one is going to arrest you for drinking water. But walking down the street chomping on a baguette while everyone else is fasting? That’s rude. Please use open restaurants or eat indoors. Think of it like eating in front of a friend on a strict diet—being discreet shows support and respect.
- The Alcohol Situation: This is the dry season. Liquor stores (and the alcohol aisles in supermarkets like Carrefour) close weeks before Ramadan starts. Many bars shut down completely.
- The Loophole: High-end hotels and licensed tourist restaurants will still serve wine and beer, but usually only indoors and with food. Do not expect to grab a beer on a sunny terrace. Check your hotel listing on Booking.com to see if they have a bar that stays open for non-Muslim guests.
- Patience: People are hungry. Caffeine withdrawals are real. If a taxi driver is a little grumpy at 4:00 PM, let it slide. A smile and a "Ramadan Mubarak" (Blessed Ramadan) usually fixes everything.
The Verdict: Should You Go?
Absolutely. 100%.
Ramadan peels back the curtain. You see the real Morocco. You see the charity—people handing out dates and water to strangers stuck in traffic at sunset. You see the family bonds. And you eat the best food of the year.
Just adjust your clock. Sleep in. Use the quiet mornings to explore the sites without the crowds. Then, nap in the afternoon and stay up late to soak in the carnival atmosphere.
If you want to organize day trips to escape the city—like heading to the Ouzoud Waterfalls or the Agafay Desert—I highly recommend booking through GetYourGuide. They keep their schedules updated for Ramadan timings, so you won't be left stranded waiting for a driver who is still eating his soup.
Pack your loose pants (trust me on the Chebakia), bring your patience, and get ready for the most memorable dinner parties of your life.
Frequently Asked Questions
Quick answers to save you from a Ramadan fail.
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